Near to the modern sprall of the capital Kathmandu, the medieval town of Bhaktapur is remarkably clean and well-preserved. All foreigners are charged a fee on entering the town, and the money raised from this, and a German-funded development project, has helped to maintain the timeless atmosphere. Nowhere to be seen are the unfinished concrete lumps that now dominate cities like Kathmandu; in Bhaktapur (also known as Bhadgaon) new buildings have to be built with the traditional brick and carved wood of the original Newari architects.